http://www.wagnersteering.com/steering-700-series.htm
They are still in limited production and are made in BC Canada. They were used in a lot of the trawlers made in Taiwan in the 80's. Other than the seals going bad from time to time, they have a good reputation. Mine were installed in 1980. They seemed to function well. I removed the pumps from the upper and lower helm.From the rear of the pump inside the helm, The three hydrolic lines unscrew with a 1/2 wrech. The pump is held on the helm with a 7/16 bolt sitting on a 1/2 nut on tow studs that come in from the front of the helm in a bracket.
This is the rear view of the pump. Two large screws hold on a manifold. Remove this first.
There are two ball bearings inside the pump under the manifold. They will fall out if you invert the pump over a paper towel to catch them. On the pump there are three o rings, one for the shaft the other two are oval shaped sealing the oil inlets/outlets. They will be replaced.
Next I opened the pump with a 1/4 hex wrench. One was only finger tight.
Next I opened the pump using a paint scrapper and mallet. A wack in between the flanges on one side then the other will split right on the gasket area.
When the gasket gives up, the piston springs may cause the barrel to spring out, not too bed but be ready for it.
Here is the housing on the left and the barrel with the pistons on the right.
There is a three part bearing set at a angle in between the barrel and the housing. When the pump rotates, the bearing actuates the pistons. Notice the rust on this bearing, If I can get a nre one I will. It may be used again, this not a transmission and the tolerances are not as great.
Here is the parts all layed out.
This is the seal kit. I got it from
I was told parts for Wagners were not available, so I was really pleased to see this blog. I stripped my 701 pump this morning and plan to rebuild it. The seal kit is on its way now - did your helm pumps work well after you rebuilt them?
ReplyDeleteI have a CHB 34 and the work you are doing reminds me so much of the work I have done and will continue to do for years to come. I think I have worked through the very depressing stage of discovering more and more core rot - most of it is fixed now. I made fiberglass framed sliding windows for the aft cabin, and I replaced the plastic portholes for bronze ones.
Your detailed description & pictures were very helpful - Thank you!
ReplyDeleteOne note that might be helpful for others attempting to disassemble / replace seals. Apparently there are different configurations of the assembly body. My 701 pump did not have 1/4 hex bolts securing the body together. The pump assembly is threaded (but not obvious as took me awhile to figure it out)... securing in a vice I was able to unscrew the 'ring' (widest part of assembly body) to open the assembly.
Otherwise very straightforward. Hope this helps someone
Rob T... others,
ReplyDeleteI have the same design with a ring sitting the two sides, mine does not want to come willingly. Is it suppressed to take a lot of strength to remove? Which way does it thread... does it come off the top where the steering wheel is, or the other side where it mounts to the helm stand?
This is for a pump with a large round nut holding the cases together. Place the pump in a vise, shaft down, with a towel between the jaws and only tighten it down enough so it won’t turn. Using a “round nut” wrench place one of the points into one of the 2 holes in the side of the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. With the proper wrench it should turn off easily. The most important part of an overhaul is the lock-valve. All fluid in and out of the pump goes through the lock-valve. When you turn the wheel the pressure opens up both the high pressure and low pressure ports via the lock-valve. If the the lock-valve is defective the system will not work properly. If there is a second pump in the system the lock-valve prevents oil from entering the pump by blocking both ports on the idle pump.
ReplyDeleteThanks. I missed this part and the pumps did not work after Re installation. I needed to move on so I just bought two new pumps and a new cylinder that was bigger allowing greater turning radius. Now all is well after 3500 NM.
DeleteHey thanks everyone for you knowledge and description of stripping and replacing seals on Wagner 701. My Markline has the bottom helm pump leaking. The seal kit I got from Yard Engineering at Coomera on Gold Coast. Thanks again. Wayne.
ReplyDeleteWayne
ReplyDeleteHow did you bleed the unit after re installation. Thanks.
11 September 2020
where can we get the seals kit ?
ReplyDelete